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Step One: "LET'S GO”, advance to "Heel":
The commands for this exercise are the same as in Session One, but with 2 significant changes in the positioning of the puppy. First: Keep the puppy on your left hand side so that he no longer can cross over in front or behind you. This can be managed by placing the leash in 2 hands and extending your arms straight down to your sides. Should the pup try to cross over, in your corrective tone say “Hee“ and praise once you have his attention. This is the starting point
For heelwork. Secondly: Only give him 1/2 the length of the 6 foot leash. This will help control where he is going.
Step Two: Long Distance: "LET'S GO":
Continue to use your long line (as in session one) for energy burn off and long distance Recalls.
This needs to be a part of everyday routine if possible. The difference will be obvious in your puppy
Step Three: "Sit-Stay":
Place the puppy in the "SIT" position as in session 1 and give this hand signal: Place your right hand about 6 to 8 inches in front of the puppy's face then spread your fingers a bit. Don t hold the signal too long, just a couple seconds is enough time to get the pup to focus his attention and concentrate on listening. As you are giving the signal, command “STAY“at the same time. Steady the pup by resting your left hand on his shoulders if he's edgy or insecure and slowly rise into an upright standing position. If the puppy breaks, quickly replace him in the "SIT" position. Practice this for about 5 repetitions in a row for 10 to 15 seconds each time. When you give the hand signal compare it to shaking hands with someone. If the person's hand that is in your hand is weak and limp does that not make you feel like you are in control. If the hand is firm and has an “I am in charge“Kind of shake, isn't the message sent to you saying this hand is more powerful then the weak handshake? So, when you put your hand in front of the puppy, don't be weak, have a firm movement with your voice command. In a firm voice say "SIT" then "STAY" then slowly rise to an upright position with a confidence that your puppy will feel from you.
Step Four: “Recall” from the “Sit”:
Place the puppy in a "SIT" position on your left leg and give the command "WAIT". This time when you leave to swing
to the front, leave on your right foot first and take a big step so that there is a distance of about 3 feet between the pup
and you. Recall him to you using the pup's name first and "COME". As you are giving the commands, bend down to
puppy's level so that he has a target to come to. Now here is another "Mother Nature" trick. Open your arms out wide
and touch the floor as your calling your puppy . Call your puppy by it's name in a happy higher pitched tone. At least
higher than your normal voice. Why do this? When a puppy initiates play or wants to send a message to other puppies
or dogs that is friendly and is accepting that other dog, what does it do? More often than not, it will bend the front part of
it's body towards the ground and spread out it's front legs and perhaps bark in a higher pitched voice than normal to
the dog or person it wants to play with. Now, when you use body language that the puppy instinctively understands, and
Use words from your language, your puppy will read this as a friendly inviting command. Once the pup is sure that the
word "COME" used with these body motions is friendly, your puppy will start to move quickly towards you. Try it! When
done properly it will work within 5 minutes....or less! You can speed up this process to even less than a minute if you start to go backwards as you call your puppy. If there is any hesitation start to reel your puppy in on the leash the first couple of times.
IMPORTANT: Keep the leash on for accuracy, safety and encouragement. If he does not have the leash on and makes an error, how can you correct the situation?
Step Five: The "Down" Exercise:
Place the puppy in a "SIT" on your left leg. Rest your Left hand on his shoulder blades and slide your right hand behind both front legs. Say the pup's name and command “DOWN“. At the same moment, sweep both front legs gently out from under the puppy the pup should slide automatically into a laying position. To "Steady" him, just apply a bit of pressure to the front and hind ends of the pup. If he struggles, "tremble your hands" a bit while touching the pup and command "STAY". Hold the position "Down" for about 10 seconds to start then release with "OK" and let him up with lots of praise.
Step Six: The "Stand For Examination":
Place the puppy in a "SIT" position on your left leg. Keep your body straight beside the pup but in a kneeling position, at his level. Place the first 2 fingers of your right hand inside the collar, on the side closest to you. In an assertive tone,
Command "STAND", lean forward a bit and touch the belly of your pup with the back of your left hand. This is non threatening and is a "Steady" technique for the pup. Hold the position for 10 seconds or so and then release with "OK" and lots of praise. This is the time and exercise to introduce grooming to your puppy. If the pup goes for the brush,
Comb, nail clippers or your hands, give his collar a shake with your right hand along with a strong growly "NO". For the first few weeks, keep the leash on for grooming so that you are prepared in case of mischief.
